Climbing Mt. Agung In Indonesia To Greet The Sun
There are few places on Earth where you can greet the sun before anyone else. Mount Agung in Indonesia is such a place. It takes a bit of work to reach the summit, sitting at roughly 3,142 metres above sea level. It also means hiking by moon and starlight. But if you have the moxie and are in good physical shape, your reward for this journey to the top of this sleeping volcano is an unmatched tropical sunrise. It begins with a sliver of light in the east, tendrils of the sun’s rays breaching the horizon. Nearby clouds pick up the rose coloured shades while the ocean goes from midnight blue to dusky purples. Finally the stars and the moon give way and you find yourself in the midst of an achingly blue ocean, anchored on the rim of a giant mountain that makes the land below seem almost insignificant. No wonder the Balinese people consider Mount Agung sacred.
About Mount Agung
Mount Agung last erupted in 1963, which in geologic terms is a mere blink of an eye. The mountain is a near perfect cone, built up by layers of lava, volcanic ash and pumice all hardened over time. Mount Agung is the tallest point on Bali and regularly affects weather patterns. The eastern slope of the mountain is dry while the western side is a virtual jungle, thanks to all that rain squeezed out of approaching clouds.
According to Balinese legend, Mount Agung mirrors Mount Meru, revered by followers of Hindu, Jain and Buddhism. It is believed to be the center of the spiritual universe, affecting all things physical and metaphysical. Part of that legend tells of Hindus bringing a piece of Mount Meru to Bali, turning it into Mount Agung. The belief was reinforced during the 1963 eruption, which though it wiped out villages and killed roughly 1,500 people, spared the Mother Temple of Besakih built on the side of Mount Agung. In 1995 the temple, actually consisting of 22 separate but related structures, was put on the tentative list for consideration as a World Heritage Site.
Pasar Agung Temple
The Pasar Agung Temple sits at an altitude of 1,600 metres and is the starting point for one of the three prime hiking treks up Mount Agung. The temple area can be reached by car and it is a popular meeting point for sunrise hikes up the mountain. Even if you have no intention of climbing beyond that 1,600 metres you’ll find panoramic views of Bali from this level. To get from the parking lot to the temple requires a mini-hike of sorts, up some 300 steps through gardens and trees. You can choose to do this on your own or join a local tour group that includes transportation up the mountain and an escort into the temple. Your guide will also advise you of proper attire, at least a sarong or sash, and of the Balinese prayer and offering ceremony. Half-day and full-day tours are offered.
The Trek up Mount Agung
Three climbing routes will take you to the summit of Mount Agung. The most demanding is on the western slope and leaves from a point near the Besakih Temple. Taking between 6 and 7 hours to complete it is the most physically challenging. To reach the summit by sunrise you need to leave Besakih Temple by roughly 11:00 p.m. On the north is the most forgiving route, but also the longest. It leaves from Duku Bejanagga Saki, at an elevation of just 300 metres. This trek includes an overnight campout at the 1,700 metre level. The trek to the summit begins at dawn on the following day.
The third option is the southern route, a bit more forgiving than the Besakih Temple route and taking between 3 and 4 hours to get to the top. It leaves from Pura Pasar Agung, first taking you through a mountain forest. The trail then leads over a rocky substrate and finally to a climb through hardened lava fields. Starting time for this hike is anywhere from 1:30 a.m. to 2:30 a.m. All three hikes are challenging, taking an escorted tour or hiring your own local guide is a must.
Advantages of Taking a Mount Agung Trek Tour
While taking advantage of a local guide is a smart option, joining a guided tour up the mountain is even better. Share the experience of welcoming the sun with other like minded souls. Guided tours typically include transportation to the temple starting points. One example is a tour that leaves from Pura Pasar Agung. The entire party makes the journey together under the guidance of professional guide that knows Mount Agung well and can get you to the summit before the sun starts to rise. Refreshments are usually served at the top while you enjoy the view. That same guide gets you back down the mountain and to your hotel by early afternoon.
Mount Agung tours are often part of more extensive tours of Indonesia. If you are planning on visiting this land of 18,000 islands, picture perfect beaches and wildlife rich rainforests, check the itinerary and see if Mount Agung is included. It is a physically challenging, spiritual journey that simply should not be missed.
If you want to experience this part of the world make sure to check out our various excursions to Indonesia at odysseytreks.com/indonesia/.
